Beauty Placebo

Imagine your favorite lipstick or anti-aging product. Now picture removing the satisfying click of the pump, the shiny pendant with the brand's initial, the substantial weight of the glass jar or the comforting lingering luxury scent. Despite these elements missing, do you still find your product appealing? Do you believe it is still effective? Furthermore, have you ever considered the influence of beauty's placebo effect, with its captivating marketing?

The term placebo, as we know it today, originated from the Latin expression "Placebo domino in regione vivorum" which roughly translates to "I shall please the Lord in the land of the living". This phrase was sung during funeral rites. In medieval France, distant relatives and unknown individuals attended funerals with the intent to pretend mourning to receive a portion of the food served. They would sing this phrase and were collectively labeled as "placebo singers."

In 1939, Italian physician Fieschi introduced a surgical technique to treat Angina pectoris, blocking two mammary arteries with the premise that more oxygen would be available to the heart, leading to improvement in approximately 75% of the operated patients. Later, in 1956, surgeon Leonard Cobb questioned this technique. He conducted a study where half of the patients received Fieschi's technique, while the other half received only the surgical incisions. Surprisingly, the results were similar between the two groups, marking the beginning of documenting the placebo effect.

In pharmacology, the placebo effect occurs when a substance or a procedure produces a positive effect, even though it lacks the capacity to do so, improving the perceived symptoms of a specific condition. Given its existence and relevance, any clinical trial for a pharmacological or medical intervention must consider the placebo effect. This involves subtracting the placebo effect from the apparent effects of the intervention to identify the true treatment effect. Since then, all properly conducted and valid clinical studies must be placebo controlled.

Now, while this phenomenon is well-known in medicine and pharmacology, does the placebo effect also influence perceptions and outcomes in the cosmetics field? Is it a factor worth considering when discussing the effectiveness of skincare and beauty products? Firstly, it's essential to remember that unlike pharmaceutical and medical products, the starting point for testing cosmetic efficacy comes from the claim that the cosmetic company wants to make regarding that product. Thus, if the claim involves a comparison with another established product on the market, the results of a given characteristic between the two products are compared. On the other hand, if they want to prove that a specific ingredient can enhance a given parameter, they test it against a placebo (that means, the formula without that active ingredient). This equation is already quite complex, but it's just the beginning of an extremely intricate subject.

A cosmetic product and the consumer's perception of its effectiveness include factors beyond just its scientific efficacy. For example, the study by Distante and colleagues in 2007 tested whether a fancier packaging could induce a placebo effect. While the results weren't sufficient to claim that a placebo effect was induced by the packaging alone, there was indeed a difference in how the product's benefits were perceived between the two groups. The most interesting observation from this study was that when the same product was in a less fancy package (so perceived as cheaper), the amount used by individuals in each use was higher (and in this case, more appropriate), and consequently, the beneficial effects of the product were also greater when compared to the same product in a fancier package.

Our perception of beauty is deeply intertwined with our psychological state. When we apply cosmetics, we often do so with the expectation of enhancing our appearance and boosting our confidence. This expectation alone can have a profound impact on how we perceive ourselves and how others perceive us. The placebo effect comes into play when our beliefs about a product influence its perceived effectiveness. For example, if we believe that a particular moisturizer will make our skin look radiant and youthful, we may experience these benefits even if the product itself has no inherent properties to achieve such results.

Also, marketing strategies play a crucial role in shaping our perceptions of beauty products and amplifying the placebo effect. Clever advertising campaigns, celebrity endorsements, and persuasive packaging can create a sense of anticipation and excitement around a product, leading us to believe in its efficacy before we even use it. The placebo effect thrives in this environment of heightened expectations and anticipation, contributing to our overall satisfaction with the product, regardless of its actual effects.

Isn't it intriguing how a beautifully designed package and a small pendant can influence our perception of a product? Now that we understand this phenomenon, what steps can we take as consumers to avoid falling for products that rely solely on marketing hype without delivering real effectiveness? While the placebo effect can add to our enjoyment of cosmetics, it's crucial to approach beauty products with a balanced mindset and realistic expectations. By recognizing the influence of our beliefs and expectations, we empower ourselves to make informed choices that align with our values and objectives. In essence, cosmetics go beyond mere products; they serve as instruments for self-expression, self-care, and promoting psychological well-being.

References:

Wiechers, J. W. (2009, February 23). Much Ado About Nothing: Cosmetics Testing with a Placebo. Cosmetics & Toiletries.

Distante, F., Pagani, V., Bonfigli, A., Rigano, L., & Fluhr, J. (2007). Objective Evaluation of the Placebo Effect in Cosmetic Treatments: A Randomized Controlled Study. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 29(1), 64.

Schaffner, L. (2017, August 25). The Surprising Placebo Effect of a Luxury Beauty Product's High Price Tags and Fancy Packaging. Allure.