Why Your Expensive Skincare Product Is Not Working—and What You Can Do About It

A few years ago, I worked in a retail pharmacy—a fancy one with an aisle dedicated solely to luxury skincare products. Picture shimmering glass shelves lined with exquisitely packaged jars and bottles, each promising a radiant, youthful complexion. I often encountered customers who spent loads of money on these products, only to return disappointed, wondering why their pricey investment was not delivering on its promises.

One instance stands out in my memory. A woman approached me, visibly frustrated. She had purchased a high-end cream designed to boost collagen and radiance, yet her skin showed no improvement. Now, I will admit—I was not the world’s best salesperson. My manager constantly encouraged me to push vitamins, OTC drugs, and of course, new cosmetics to unsatisfied customers. But I could not bring myself to sell for the sake of selling. So, instead of recommending another expensive product, I decided to dig deeper.

I asked her a series of simple but revealing questions:

• Do you drink at least 2 liters of water daily? No.

• Do you use sunscreen every day, even when it is cloudy? No.

• Do you smoke? Yes.

• Do you follow a balanced diet and exercise regularly? Not really. Work is too stressful right now.

• What’s your skincare routine like? She explained: Daily exfoliation with sulfur soap, makeup with SPF (no dedicated sunscreen), and at night, a mix of rosehip oil and moisturizer her friend had recommended. And then the new cream.

  
  

It did not take much time to piece the puzzle together. The problem was not her new luxury cream (which indeed had a strong science-backed efficacy) it was her lifestyle.

Image Source: AI Generated (Microsoft Bing). 

Why Your Skincare Product Might Feel Ineffective

Many people expect skincare products—especially expensive ones—to perform miracles. The truth is, no cream, no matter how luxurious, can compensate for unhealthy habits or shield you from all the factors that affect your skin.

Your skin’s health and appearance depend on a multifactorial process influenced by three key elements:

1. Genome: Your genetics define your skin’s type, sensitivity, and resilience, shaping how it responds to care and external factors. Understanding these intrinsic traits is crucial for selecting the right skincare routine, as using products recommended for someone with a different skin type often leads to poor results. A dermatologist consultation can provide personalized insights, ensuring your routine aligns with your unique genetic profile for optimal skin health.

2. Exposome: The exposome encompasses all the factors your skin is exposed to daily, shaping its health and appearance. These include environmental influences such as pollution, UV radiation, and climate; lifestyle habits such as sleep quality, diet, exercise, and stress; and the skincare products you use. In the last one, striking the right balance is key, as both overloading your skin with too many products and neglecting proper care can lead to issues.

3. Microbiome: The microorganisms living on your skin are essential for maintaining its protective barrier and preventing inflammation. However, over-exfoliating, using harsh cleansers, or neglecting to moisturize can disrupt this delicate ecosystem, making your skin more vulnerable to harmful, pathogenic microorganisms.

The Real Secret to Healthy, Radiant Skin

If you are not addressing the root causes of your skin concerns, even the best skincare products will not deliver results. Achieving a glowing complexion requires an holistic approach that accounts for both internal and external factors. Since you and your skin are unique, consulting a dermatologist is the best way to develop a tailored routine that will take into account your genome, exposome and microbiome. That said, there are some simple yet highly effective general recommendations that can make a significant difference:

Image Source: The author. 

Conclusion: Skincare Is Not a Quick Fix

The next time you are tempted to blame your expensive cream, take a step back and assess the bigger picture. Your skin reflects your overall health and lifestyle. No single product can undo the effects of dehydration, stress, poor diet, or smoking. Remember, skincare works best as part of a broader strategy. Pair those premium products with premium healthy habits, and you will start to see the results you are hoping for.

Your skin deserves care from the inside out—because beauty is not just in the bottle.

References:

[1] Krutmann, J., Bouloc, A., Sore, G., Bernard, B. A., & Passeron, T. (2017). The skin aging exposome. Journal of dermatological science, 85(3), 152–161. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdermsci.2016.09.015

[2] Khmaladze, I., Leonardi, M., Fabre, S., Messaraa, C., & Mavon, A. (2020). The Skin Interactome: A Holistic "Genome-Microbiome-Exposome" Approach to Understand and Modulate Skin Health and Aging. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology, 13, 1021–1040. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S239367

[3] Mitri, A., Lin, G., Waldman, R. A., & Grant-Kels, J. M. (2021). Effects of tobacco and vaping on the skin. Clinics in dermatology, 39(5), 762–771. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clindermatol.2021.05.004