Equilibrium Reflected: Unveiling Skin's Role as the Mirror of Health

I'm currently in my exam month here at the University of Piemonte Orientale through the EMOTION Master's program, and over the past week, I have been intensively studying the biochemistry of aging and its effects on our skin. It is a fascinating subject and one that inspired today's text!

It is no secret that one of humanity's greatest battles is to find the Fountain of Youth, right? There is a legend dating back to Greco-Roman mythology that speaks of a magical spring with water that has the power to restore youth to those who drink from it or bathe in it. The fountain was first mentioned by the Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de León in the 16th century, who supposedly searched for it in Florida during one of his expeditions. Since then, the idea of the Fountain of Youth has been the subject of various stories, tales, and works of fiction, representing the universal human desire to live a long and youthful life. And who does not remember the queen who wanted to stay beautiful and young forever, huh, Mirror, Mirror on the wall? Anyway, the presence of the elixir of youth archetype in our collective unconscious is undeniable. But what does this have to do with the cosmetic industry?

Whether for a goal that challenges anthropology or economics, the battle against aging is always a constant in the beauty realm. And nowadays we have a considerable arsenal on the shelves promising to prevent, delay, or disguise aging. But at the same time, consumers' big question is always: Does this really work?

To understand if a product works, we first need to understand what it is fighting against. Aging is a natural process in our bodies. Characterized by the macroscopic effects of wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and rough texture, aging is a complex biological process influenced by a combination of endogenous (internal) factors such as genetics, metabolism, hormones, and metabolic processes, and also exogenous (external) factors such as photodamage, pollution, nutrition, and chemical exposure.

These endogenous and exogenous factors most of the time lead to aging due to a process called Oxidative stress. Oxidative stress arises from an imbalance between the production of Reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the ability of cellular antioxidant defenses to neutralize them. These ROS are natural byproducts of cellular metabolism and are important for a lot of processes in our bodies. However, excessive ROS levels, often due to environmental factors like pollution or UV radiation, overwhelm antioxidant systems, leading to oxidative damage of DNA, lipids, and proteins. And here comes a protagonist of the story, proteins. Proteins are one of the most important components of our bodies, with structural, transport, hormonal, enzymatic functions, and so on. In summary, the oxidative stress will disrupt the balance of protein production and degradation, an equilibrium state called Proteostasis.

It is no wonder that the main biochemical target in our skin for anti-aging cosmetics is collagen. Collagen is a fibrous protein present in the skin that helps maintain its structure, firmness, and elasticity. With aging, collagen production decreases, and existing collagen fibers may deteriorate, resulting in wrinkles, sagging, and other signs of skin aging. Anti-aging cosmetics often aim to stimulate collagen production, protect existing collagen, or even provide external collagen to help improve skin appearance and reduce signs of aging.

The most advanced cosmetic actives aim to maintain skin proteostasis by protecting against oxidative stress, reducing inflammation, and promoting healthy cell renewal. Some common ingredients found in cosmetic products designed to improve proteostasis include specific peptides (the little unit that proteins are made of), which can help stimulate the production of essential proteins for skin health, such as collagen and elastin, and antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and plant extracts, which can neutralize free radicals and protect skin cells from oxidative damage.

It is truly years and years of research to find the villain and possible heroes, but returning to the initial question: Has humanity found the long-desired elixir of youth, capable of maintaining our proteostasis?

The truth is that today we have knowledge and cosmetic arsenal to age with quality, but no cosmetic will work miracles alone. As explained before, aging is an extremely complex process with many factors at play. The human body is a machine, and like any machine, it needs care and maintenance. So if you do not drink enough water, do not protect yourself from excessive sun exposure, do not eat properly, and do not exercise regularly, not even the most expensive product on the shelf will solve your problem.

The secret lies in simple things; is not proteostasis the balance of proteins? The key to healthy aging also lies in balance. So, to optimize the effects of the cosmetic products you buy, here are some tips:

1. Accept that aging comes anyway, and what you can do is age with quality.

2. Improve your water intake, your nutrition in general, and include regular exercise (YES! All of this influences your skin!).

3. Acquire cosmetics and use them to your advantage, with moderate and continuous use according to each product's specifications.

4. Remember to smile! Our mood and psychological state greatly affect the biochemistry of our bodies, and smile lines are not signs to be corrected; they are there to remind you of all the good experiences you have had during your life. Age with equilibrium and health!

References:

Jin, S., Li, K., Zong, X., Eun, S., Morimoto, N., & Guo, S. (2023). Hallmarks of Skin Aging: Update. Aging and disease, 14(6), 2167–2176. https://doi.org/10.14336/AD.2023.0321

Boismal, F., Serror, K., Dobos, G., Zuelgaray, E., Bensussan, A., & Michel, L. (2020). Vieillissement cutané - Physiopathologie et thérapies innovantes [Skin aging: Pathophysiology and innovative therapies]. Medecine sciences : M/S, 36(12), 1163–1172. https://doi.org/10.1051/medsci/2020232