The Rise of Niacinamide: Your Guide to Skincare’s Favorite Ingredient

In recent years, niacinamide has become a favorite active ingredient in cosmetic products. You will find it in serums, often paired with zinc, as well as in formulations designed for oily and acne-prone skin, anti-aging products, and even in skin cleansers and shampoos. Beyond its wide availability, niacinamide-based items are also quite affordable in countries like Brazil and Italy, in my experience.

But why is niacinamide so popular? Does it really work?

Even as a pharmacist, my initial understanding of niacinamide in cosmetics was rather empirical. I have extremely oily and acne-prone skin, so I'm always on the lookout for products that help manage these issues without drying out my skin. One day, out of curiosity, I bought a serum containing 10% niacinamide and 1% zinc. After washing my face and applying the serum before bed, I was surprised to wake up with significantly less oiliness than usual. I became an instant fan of niacinamide.

To better understand its effects, I did some research and put together this summary for you, fellow skincare enthusiast, who wants to know more about niacinamide.

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that is well-tolerated by the skin. It acts on fundamental biochemical reactions within cells, exhibiting potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Niacinamide is important because it helps create a substance called Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide (NAD+), a coenzyme found in all living cells that play a crucial role in various metabolic processes, including energy production and cellular repair by reducing damage from oxidative stress and inflammation.

Studies have confirmed that niacinamide has antimicrobial activity, making it effective against bacteria and preventing biofilm formation. Regarding sebum production, several clinical studies indicate that preparations with 2% to 5% niacinamide can effectively reduce sebum output after topical application, particularly in Asian and Caucasian populations. However, the precise mechanism behind niacinamide's sebostatic action remains unclear.

Niacinamide’s proven efficacy in acne treatment and sebum reduction extends to addressing skin hyperpigmentation and glycation-related yellowing. It also helps maintain the skin’s extracellular matrix by preserving collagen, inhibiting matrix-degrading enzymes, and promoting the production of collagen and elastin. Thus, niacinamide addresses several key issues related to sebum production, inflammation, and skin aging, making it a very versatile active ingredient for cosmetic applications.

Most of niacinamide's actions occur in the epidermis or dermis, yet many niacinamide-based products on the market are designed for topical application. These formulations need to achieve transdermal delivery to fully utilize niacinamide’s potential. For this reason, formulators need to consider the right vehicle for optimal transdermal delivery, as molecules must penetrate the stratum corneum, the outermost skin layer, which serves as a major barrier to any outside molecule penetration. An aqueous (water-based) formulation has limited ability to penetrate the stratum corneum. However, an oil-in-water formulation improves niacinamide's ability to reach the epidermis. For a more direct impact on the deeper dermis layer, some studies suggest using an aqueous solution or hydrogel for intradermal injections. However, this enters the domain of aesthetic procedures, not merely the cosmetic field.

In conclusion, niacinamide's versatility and effectiveness make it a standout ingredient in skincare. Whether you are dealing with acne, oily skin, aging concerns, or hyperpigmentation, niacinamide offers multiple benefits. Its ability to be well tolerated, support the skin’s natural functions, reduce inflammation, and improve overall skin health explains why it has become such a popular and trusted ingredient in the world of cosmetics.

References:

[1] Boo Y. C. (2021). Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation. Antioxidants (Basel, Switzerland), 10(8), 1315. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox10081315

[2] Draelos, Z. D., Matsubara, A., & Smiles, K. (2006). The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Journal of cosmetic and laser therapy: official publication of the European Society for Laser Dermatology, 8(2), 96–101. https://doi.org/10.1080/14764170600717704

[3] Marques, C., Hadjab, F., Porcello, A., Lourenço, K., Scaletta, C., Abdel-Sayed, P., Hirt-Burri, N., Applegate, L. A., & Laurent, A. (2024). Mechanistic Insights into the Multiple Functions of Niacinamide: Therapeutic Implications and Cosmeceutical Applications in Functional Skincare Products. Antioxidants (Basel, Switzerland), 13(4), 425. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox13040425